Looking at friends and colleagues who climb down from their rooftop tents in the morning, drop the tailgate and brew coffee strong enough to wake the dead and evict the devils left behind from last night’s fire-side storytelling, I join a community of travellers who see a pickup as both overlander and daily driver. School runs and office commutes aren’t on my to-do list. More a case of squeezing through alleys in ancient towns on the brink of extinction, or following a faint trail through remote terrain to help a conservation project or trace trade routes so pale they no longer show on maps.

So why has Larry, my faithful 1963 Land Rover, fallen into disrepute? He hasn’t. But driving a vintage truck with no creature comforts isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. I love the bare-bones simplicity and the fact that maintenance can be carried out anywhere with cheap, readily available parts.

But a modern pickup with comfortable seats, air conditioning, power steering, suspension that forgives oversight, the ability to melt into modern traffic, and the capacity to satisfy weekend warriors and long-haul overlanders alike…that’s a different challenge. One for the modern family man—and his wife who also needs space for kids, luggage and sports kit.

The VW Amarok PanAmericana with its factory-fitted hardtop has an air about it, hinting it’ll fare better than its SUV siblings once the asphalt runs out. Probably? Well, that’s what I wanted to find out. And what better way than to live with one for a couple of weeks.

First Impressions

Walk around from near or far and the sculpted form comes across as rugged, purposeful…and enormous. A long beast, which should mean a roomy cabin and plenty of bed space. Good for travel. Urban parking? We’ll see.

It sits on 20” alloys shod with road tyres—not ideal for off-pavement work, but that’s an easy fix. Steel rims and A/T, M/T or R/T tyres will slot easily under the squared arches.

The hardtop is a win: security, weather protection, and a look that’s less workhorse, more refined traveller. Locks tie into the central locking, so no fumbling with keys on a dark night and less chance of leaving the tailgate open.

On the road, the PanAmericana is planted and predictable. Steering has feel. The Ford-sourced 3.0-litre V6 TDI flows with traffic in comfort. Even the neighbours were impressed. These are people used to seeing 4x4s and expedition trucks in front of my house, yet the Amarok drew praise. “So you’ve finally got a normal car then!”

Driving back from the Eifel, an oncoming Amarok flashed its headlamps and the driver raised a hand in salute. I thought that was a Land Rover habit. Turns out Amarok drivers are an enthusiastic bunch, too. Love that.

Inside the Cabin

VW’s team has done a fine job. Sliding behind the wheel, the driver’s seat adjusts to fit all physiques. Plenty of shoulder and leg room. At first the smart dash layout and big centre screen felt out of place, but the leather upholstery, Harman Kardon sound system and general ambience soon proved otherwise. This is not just a polished load-lugger in disguise.

Appearance and comfort rival some premium SUVs. Controls are well placed. Visibility from the driver’s seat is excellent. You know you’re in a “proper” truck when you look out over the magnificent bonnet and see exactly where the corners and arches sit. Other drivers think twice before cutting you up.

Even on the hottest days, the air-conditioning kept the cabin cool without the fans drowning out a podcast.

Rear seats? Great for kids. Taller adults may find it tight behind my driving position, but quality is consistent throughout.

And then the litmus test: door shut. Hollow bang or solid thud? The Amarok passes with a reassuring thump. On the highway, you can hold a conversation without shouting. Solid. Soundproofed.

Powertrain & Handling

The recipe: V6 TDI, 240 bhp, 600 Nm, 10-speed auto, 2H/4H/4L transfer box, rear diff lock. Enough to get you anywhere across storm, rock, sand or snow.

But this isn’t just about spec sheets. Empty or loaded, the suspension won’t rattle your fillings, and body roll isn’t excessive. Firm and comfortable is the verdict.

Big number: 2,399 kg unladen. Don’t expect to win drag races. Country lanes and twisty climbs are simply dispatched: point, press, go. On the motorway, the long wheelbase irons out imperfections. Long hauls are easy miles. Top speed? 180 km/h, but who cares. Loaded with kit and maybe a rooftop tent, you’ll cruise at 120.

Off-road, torque through the 10-speed box makes for predictable progress. And when it gets sticky, flick the diff lock.

Rooftop tents? No problem. Dynamic and static load ratings of 85 kg and 350 kg respectively make the Amarok an ideal overlanding platform.

Practicality

On road: 5.35 m long, 1.9 m wide (without mirrors), just under 1.9 m tall. Not as long as the Grenadier Quartermaster, but longer than any SUV you can name. Urban parking bays can be a squeeze. Turning circle is 12.9 m—less than the Quartermaster’s 14.5, more than a HiLux.

Load space: two Euro pallets fit easily. With the hardtop, gear stays safe and dry. Just remember, unsecured loads will slide. Tie it down, or risk climbing in after your groceries.

As a daily driver, patience may be needed for parking.

As an overlander: this is your basecamp. Bedroom high above the critters. Kitchen on the tailgate. Space for everything. Four seats—unless, like me, you use one for the fridge.

If you take your overlanding seriously, off-the-shelf stats are solid: 800 mm wading, 30°/23°/21° approach, departure and ramp. After-market accessories can boost them further.

Likes & Dislikes

Every owner has different priorities, but as an expedition contender or weekend escape rig, here’s my take.

Likes: payload capacity; accurate steering; excellent visibility; comfort that sets the benchmark.

Dislikes: exterior panels feel thin—dings will show; modern electronics mean field repairs aren’t always straightforward.

The Takeaway

So, does the mythical creature of the overlander/daily driver exist? Not everyone can afford two vehicles. If you’re serious about vehicle supported remote travel and need one car to do it all, the Amarok PanAmericana (or a simpler trim) deserves a place on your shortlist.

Off-road it’s capable. On-road it’s comfortable. Payload is generous. VW has a global footprint, so spares shouldn’t be a problem when you’re far from home.

The PanAmericana spec is good value: capable, comfortable, and (almost) showroom-ready for travel. Add your own kit and personal touches—the accessory market is ready to help.

Second-Hand Tip

The Amarok PanAmericana isn’t your average building-site hack, so keep an eye on the used market as leasing contracts end. Well-specced, well-serviced examples—likely with few off-road miles—will appear. If you’re looking for a solid pickup foundation for travel, why not a pre-owned Amarok? The first owner swallows the depreciation. You swallow the miles.

VOLKSWAGEN

The post Myth-buster: Two Weeks with the VW Amarok PanAmericana appeared first on overland-europe.

This was the situation I found myself in, as the owner of a 30-year-old Land Rover Defender 110 with 650,000 km reliable travel behind her—all around Europe, parts of Africa and the eastern Mediterranean, and during multiple Sahara trips, usually as a solo vehicle. The Land Rover, named “Elsa” (after the lioness in the movie Born Free) had started life as a British Army “winterised” 110, and had seen combat in Kosovo and the Balkans with the Royal Marines Commando Helicopter Force, as well as numerous deployments around the world from aircraft carriers of the Royal Navy.

Released from service in 2000, with a mere 20,000 km on the clock, the truck was a military utility vehicle with the addition of engine, battery and cabin arctic-spec Webasto heaters—large copper radiators fed by a separate diesel burner in the engine compartment. It was the perfect basis for an overland truck: a hardtop, minimal (no) electronics, twin battery system, and a simple, reliable diesel engine. Having bought her in the April of 2000, I had her sprayed white, fitted a winch and drove her to Morocco and Algeria in June—but forgot to find a way to turn the arctic heaters off. The heat of the Saharan summer received “military assistance” in the vehicle, and as soon as I found the pipes feeding the radiators I quickly installed a bypass!

The trip was a great success, however, and paved the way for regular Saharan journeys as well as long-term crisscrossing of Europe and chunks of Africa. The years and the kilometres then mounted up. Dreams, ambitions, memories were all amassed thanks to this simple, basic and superbly fit-for-purpose vehicle.

Fast forward to 2018, and driving through a snow blizzard in the Scottish mountains late at night, I realised the cab heater had stopped working. With a windchill factor of around -30°C, a water pipe then froze in the windscreen washer spray, and the cab filled with froth and bubbles from the dashboard as the water chose a different route of escape. Some of the water entered behind the dashboard instruments under pressure and shorted out the dashboard lights. After 27 years of military service followed by regular overland travel, she was starting to show her age.

Days later on my return to home base in Northern England, I realised that her 200Tdi engine was sounding more rattly and agricultural than usual. So I took her to Ben Stowe, the guy who looks after her, and who runs Black Paw 4×4 in York. Ben’s name might be familiar to some, as he was responsible for the rebuild of Oxford, the Series One Land Rover of First Overland fame—as well as countless other overland and expedition vehicles—not to mention being a veteran of several Saharan trips himself.

PLANNING

Ben had the tough old beast in for a check-over and announced his findings. Components were showing their age and length of hard service. Over 600,000 km, much of them in desert conditions of great heat and abrasion from sand, had made their presence felt. He and I settled down with that well-known non-vehicle specific lubricant, beer, and talked through the issues. Elsa wasn’t old and finished just yet, but even a truck as solid as this one would start to deteriorate before long. The engine needed a rebuild. The various ancillary systems were starting to wear. Pipes were getting thin and corroded. Was it time to replace her before the next big trip? Retire her and keep her as a weekend camper? Sell her? The conversation went on a while, as you can imagine.

I was unwilling to change marques. I had no reason to—having driven Land Rovers and most types of Japanese and American 4×4 on various long trips in arduous conditions around the world, I’d always found the ability and reliability of Land Rovers (especially Elsa) surpassed any competitors. I didn’t want a Td5 or a TDCi engine as I wasn’t keen on the electronics and the increasing lack of tolerance for poor-quality fuel in modern engines. Yet, several times I’d found Elsa’s configuration of two seats and a large load bay a bit limiting; if I wanted to carry family, friends or passengers then generally the single passenger seat soon filled up, and that left the long bench seats in the rear—not ideal.

On the other hand, that big load area was perfect for sleeping in, should I need to pass on her MyWay roof tent and sleep inside the car for reasons of bad weather or stealth.

It was Ben that came up with the final idea—why not stretch her to a 130? Silence fell whilst this rather mad idea fermented. I could see that…first and second row seats from a crew cab, and could we somehow bolt on the whole rear load bed from the 110? Essentially keep the 110 format, with an extra row of passenger seats?

Okay, yes, how do we do this?

I’d spent a lot of time in Kenya and Tanzania in the mid-2000s in a Defender called Maggie, a hardtop 110 which we think has completed more UK-Cape Town drives (or vice versa) than any other vehicle. At the time of writing, she’s still going in Mozambique and undergoing preparations for yet another drive back to the UK. Maggie initially left the UK as a Defender 90, but I opted to rebuild her as a 110 following a road accident in Kenya.

UK law does not, however, allow us to simply cut the chassis and weld in another 20 inches of steel, as we did with Maggie. We needed another solution. A donor vehicle—a Defender 130 which we could lift the bodywork from, take the chassis, and bolt Elsa’s bodywork, engine, transmission and safari gear straight onto. If we planned it right we might even be able to build some sort of 110 out of the bits left over.

It was by chance that another friend had a matching pair of ex-Southern Scotland Electricity Board Defender 130s: crew cab 300Tdis with box bodies on the rear (one of which he’d lent me some years before)—and he was keen to sell one of them. Perfect. Money changed hands. I was living in the United Arab Emirates at the time (as I am now), and so buying and moving the 130 around the UK took some prior planning; but one snowy December evening we finally lined up both the 110 and the 130 at Black Paw for the great transformation.

ENGINE & BODYWORK

The first job was to take all the body panels off the two vehicles and take stock of engines, transmissions and chassis. The 200Tdi engine and LT77 drivetrain of the 110 were worn, as expected, but still perfectly functional. The 300Tdi and R380 from the 130 were in a much better state, with about a quarter of the mileage of the older Land Rover, so it made all the sense in the world to keep them in place for the bodywork swap, with a few minor tweaks.

Emphasis for the 130 was to be on fuel economy and reduced engine temperatures for desert drives. So the old radiator came out, and replaced by a triple-layer tropical spec unit from Northern Radiators in Leeds. I debated an aluminium radiator core for even greater cooling efficiency, but opted for copper in the end as it’s tougher for arduous use. The old intercooler was replaced by the thickest one I could get from tried-and-trusted supplier Allisport (the 200Tdi in the 110 has an Allisport intercooler that’s about fifteen years old, and still solid) and fitted to the 300Tdi, augmented by a hybrid turbo from Fourby in Birmingham.

I also fitted a Morgan Hill boost pin, again in an attempt to increase efficiency rather than raise horsepower. I deliberately avoided modifications that would increase engine temperatures solely to gain power. An Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge monitors the turbo temperature when grinding through soft sand in Saharan dunes. We blanked off the EGR valve and the central silencer box on the 130 exhaust removed – a simple but effective modification to increase torque.

We dry-fitted the bodywork from the 110 onto the 130, keeping in place the second row of passenger doors. Everything fitted, and what was doubly nice was that the rear body from the 110 sat neatly on the back half of the 130 chassis with a combined length of almost exactly that of the original 130 crew cab. There were a couple of issues: a new, longer, roof needed fabricating and the wheel arch on the rear body (from the 110) was in the wrong place for the 130 axle—deftly solved by Ben with an invisible “cut and paste”—and the rear crossmember was in the wrong place.

I specified the addition of a custom swing-away rear spare wheel carrier that could also carry two full fuel jerrycans, and this needed a full 110-style rear crossmember, which the standard 130 design lacks (the actual crossmember is recessed under the rear body on a 130). So, Ben had to fabricate an extra length of chassis and a second rear crossmember to weld on, to enable this feature.

As the 130 took shape, it became apparent that the leftover parts would form a decent vehicle in their own right, so a parallel project evolved—a 110 200Tdi pickup which used a spare 110 pickup bed that Ben had lying around. My plan was to use this as a weekend camper for UK and West European trips, and to mount a safari trailer-tent sized roof tent above a rear body equipped with lockers—but that’s another story!

SUSPENSION

The suspension of the 130 was the next project item. We realised that the extra length of the vehicle over a standard 110, plus the addition of the extra weight of a large spare tyre, steel wheel and two full jerrycans right at the tail of the long Land Rover, would cause much more work for the suspension.

As a 110, Elsa had run Camel Trophy-spec coil-within-coil springs and De Carbon shockers (this had replaced a setup with heavy-duty springs augmented by airbags—fine until one airbag had become abraded with Saharan sand in the Merzouga dune sea in Morocco, and burst, leaving one side of the vehicle 10 cm taller than the other…until surgery with a penknife in a sandstorm levelled things again). We felt that this was fine for a 110, but the 130 needed something beefier. We kept the Camel spec coil-in-coil springs, but fitted double Fox remote-reservoir shocks on each side of the chassis and also a bigger anti-roll bar to cope with the twisting and swaying inevitable in rough country.

The rest of the bodywork went onto the 130 without issue, though the raised air intake needed swapping from the left (UK passenger) side, normal for a 200Tdi, to the right (UK driver) side for the 300Tdi. At the same time, Ben fabricated a stainless steel tube for the raised intake with a large cyclonic Donaldson pre-cleaner on top, linked to a full set of breathers for axles, gearbox and transfer case, and so on—again from Fourby.

SAFETY & RECOVERY

The ability to self-recover was a big deal. This was going to be a big, heavy vehicle, and tough to extract from soft sand or mud, should she get stuck. Elsa had a Superwinch 9000+ in place already but this was showing its age, as was her bull bar. Both were replaced—the bull bar with an ARB item and the winch with a Warn XD9000. The winch ideally needed to have a larger capacity to deal with the big vehicle, but the 9000 was what we had to hand, and it will be replaced later. The new ARB bull bar was surprisingly flimsy and thin, and needed reinforcing plates welded inside it to enable the option of using it as a Hi-Lift jacking point, or towing and recovery point.

We also added a pair of Camel Trophy Dixon-Bate recovery jaws to the unit. I had a set of jackable side sills fabricated (with appropriate extra chassis outriggers) to enable Hi-Lift recovery from the vehicle sides. The Warn winch, annoyingly, was tough to fit; in fact, we had to mount it on its side, and cut away some of the bodywork, to locate it correctly (despite the ARB bull bar being apparently designed for Warn winches)—but it went in eventually. I kept the standard wire rope on the winch rather than change to any synthetic winch cable, as wire rope suffers much less damage from sand grains and the intense ultraviolet of desert sun. Tyres are key to self-recovery and we fitted older-pattern Goodrich 285 Mud Terrains on steel rims—older pattern as they are more grippy!

Ben and I were always mindful of vehicle stability in the project. A laden Defender 110 travelling at 100 km/h is capable of exerting and undergoing some terrifying forces when moving, both controlled or uncontrolled, and we were making a big, heavy vehicle bigger and heavier, so these forces would get even bigger and more potentially destructive. The braking system was fine (she was already on vented discs) but we next turned our minds to the centre of gravity.

I had specified the custom rear spare wheel carrier as on long-distance remote area trips I prefer two spare tyres, and I also wanted to carry two jerrycans on the back (thanks to a blacksmith near the Pyramids in Cairo, she already has a twin jerrycan rack on one side of the body). One spare wheel goes on the bonnet, and I refuse to consider mounting one on the roof rack as it raises the centre of gravity uncomfortably high and the dynamic roof load rating on a Defender is surprisingly low.

So, to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible we had to build the rear wheel carrier, as already mentioned. There was also an imperative to keep the centre of gravity front-to-rear between the two axles, so the truck wouldn’t want to “wag her tail” too much—a challenge with the now much longer tail. As a 110, Elsa’s rear load area was fitted with two stacked Front Runner sliding storage units for Wolf Cub boxes, and these are very handy—more useful than storage drawers, as I can remove whole boxes of gear (for example kitchen gear or camp kit) and carry them to wherever I camp or they are needed.

However, they are still heavy (and overlap and hang beyond the back axle); so one layer came out and migrated to the 110. Two drinking water tanks were relocated, moving further towards the centre of the vehicle; and other heavy gear like the Hi-Lift jack, fridge, spare parts locker and recovery gear was similarly moved between the axles.

ROOFTOP

Things were coming together well. I debated a full-length 130 roof rack, but instead (in the interests of cost and weight) mounted two Front Runner roof bars at the rear to accommodate the lightweight MyWay roof tent Elsa has always worn (I prefer a softshell tent to make the most of roof space, and a tent that opens over the rear door to provide shelter for cooking and a shower space). Forward of the roof bars went another pair of roof bars to take an aluminium box which contains bedding and clothing (accessible from the tent), and in front of that went a Front Runner roof rack of a size that normally fits full-length on a Defender 90.

ELECTRICS

Vehicle electrics came next. Elsa had had a twin battery installation for years, but we decided to up this to Camel Trophy spec by wiring the two underseat batteries together in parallel as a single starter “battery” to double the current for starting in arduous conditions, and then fit a third battery, a deep-cycle, to deal with the fridge and other auxiliary tasks.

All of this is now overseen by a National Luna monitoring system. There’s also the capacity to connect an 80W solar panel into the system for use when the vehicle is stationary for a while. It’s a fact that by deliberate intent there are few electronics on board, but there are two GPS systems, a Garmin 276c and a Garmin Montana (I had an early Garmin fail on me on the edge of an Algerian minefield once—so now I travel with two systems). These are both hardwired into the vehicle; although in the event of a stranding they can be removed and run on AA batteries.

The only other significant electrical equipment (apart from the Engel fridge and some extra USB and marine 12V sockets dotted around) is a hardwired Viair compressor set inside the front wing, behind the headlamp and accessed by a locker door in the wing top. This enables me to air down tyres for soft sand driving and quickly re-inflate them afterwards.

COMPLETION

We were nearing completion. As a 110, Elsa had been fitted with a gullwing door bought as an external locker door from a motorhome shop (considerably cheaper, by a factor of ten, than buying a fancy version designed for a Defender); but now her rear body was much bigger, so I wanted a larger one. Turkish overland equipment specialists Rhino Overland took great delight in custom-building an enormous gullwing door that spanned almost the whole length of the 110 rear tub, and this was very straightforward to fit (although, until the lockers were fitted behind it, Elsa did rather look like a roadside burger van).

Small details were added—fold-flat transom steps from yacht chandlers gave unobtrusive roof access. Military-spec Spafax “indestructible” wing mirrors replaced standard units. Bush wires protected the windscreen from errant branches and undergrowth. A visor added over the windshield protected against glare when driving into the setting sun. Exmoor Trim canvas seat covers protected the vinyl seats and gave handy pockets for things like a fire extinguisher. Assorted pouches and pockets by Camp Cover were fitted around the vehicle for quick and easy stowage of the necessaries of camp life.

Over the 600,000+ kilometres of her life with me so far, she’s accumulated a few mascots—a silver St Christopher medallion from a village in France, a small pendant of Our Lady of Covadonga (a gift from an elderly lady in the Spanish village of that name), a fossil belemnite from Morocco and a big hank of lion hair from the Serengeti, an earring made from the cap of a bottle of Tusker lager from Kenya and a Tuareg ring from Niger—they all used to hang from her rear view mirror as a 110. They have reappeared now in the 130, along with the Corgi Land Rover 109” I used to play with when I was five, and dreamed of owning a car like this.

LIGHTS

Driving at night in the desert and in developing countries is never a good idea, but sometimes Murphy’s Law has an effect on planning and you are forced to do it. I wanted to make sure Elsa’s lights were up to the task, as her original 30-year-old headlamp reflectors and wiring were showing their age.

Initially, I considered LED lights for the main beam, but ensuring a vehicle with non-factory fit LED main beams is legal in the UK can often be problematic. So I abandoned that idea. I also considered LED lights for the sidelights, but when testing candidate light units I found their output to be very “directional” and narrow-beamed. Not ideal for safety. In the end, I stayed with standard bulbs and chose Osram Night Breaker headlamp units, augmented by LED light bars.

As a 110, Elsa had had large circular Wipac driving lights on her nose to work alongside her headlamps, but I felt these obstructed airflow to the radiator and intercooler, so I removed them and fitted a low-profile light bar on her nose, together with a larger curved light bar over the windscreen. To lessen glare and reflection from this, I painted her bonnet matt black—and, of course, the sun visor helped.

TEST RUN

In time all seemed good to go, and I planned a test trip. Time did not allow a trip outside the UK, so I plotted a route around northern England and the west coast of Scotland. This would enable a nice mix of fast, long-range highway driving, rough trail driving (where legally allowed), remote-area camping (again, where legal) using the vehicle as a base camp, and existence “off grid” and away from resupply for several days.

In the event, the engine swap and modifications proved very successful. Elsa can now cruise 20 km/h faster as a 130 than as a 110, with less noise and at a lower engine temperature. The extra size and weight do not contribute any extra instability. The roof tent and awnings (one on each side) work well, and the water tanks and kitchen arrangements are very pleasing to live with.

Access to the cargo space is great and the double-length gullwing makes setting up camp much easier. I didn’t anticipate the rear door being about 4 cm higher from the ground because of the increased length of the body and the slight nose-down attitude of the vehicle—this makes climbing up to pitch the roof tent more “interesting” than before, but it’s still acceptable. So, all in all, very pleased indeed with the “stretch.”

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

Things aren’t finished yet. As a 110, she carried a long-range secondary fuel tank from a Gulf War-era SAS Desert Patrol Land Rover. We haven’t been able to fit this to her 130 configuration yet, because of an issue with locating the filler neck, but I’m determined that it will go in. I want to fit a capillary engine water temperature gauge to the 300Tdi block, but the port for the sensor is on the top of the block, and the weight of the 285 spare wheel flexes the bonnet so much that the sensor is damaged when bouncing about off-road—so ingenuity needed there.

Again, as a 110, she had a roof console which housed a CD player and CB radio. This has been replaced with a lighter, slimmer console in the 130, but the stereo now won’t fit…so more modifications are needed. The rear accommodation needs work—living in Arabia as I do, I’m having a set of traditional Bedouin “majlis” cushions made to fit the rear load bed. These will be able to be used as a double bed in the rear, or removed to be seating outside the truck in a camp setting.

In the final analysis, the “stretch” has been a great success. Replacement of worn parts, addition of some handy ideas, like the wired-in and wing-mounted air compressor, extra living space and extra seating space—and all done at a sensible price. She’s ready for the next 600,000 km now!

The post Featured vehicle: new robes for the King of Offroad – extending a Land Rover Defender 110 to 130 appeared first on overland-europe.

HOW CAPABLE IS THE FREELANDER 1 FOR OVERLANDING

They said a Freelander 1 could not tackle the Sahara—we did it!

Travelling Iceland in winter, going on “off-the-beaten-track” trails: the domain of Defenders. We did it in a Freelander!

Whether in blistering heat or freezing cold, the Freelander has proved itself an extremely capable vehicle. Whatever overlanding dream you have, don’t be afraid to embark on it with a Freelander.

On a trip to Morocco we decided to tackle the Sahara with our newly acquired Freelander 1, Knapsack.

When we first hit the dunes on the edge of the Sahara, we were so excited we just headed straight up one. That was nearly the end of our clutch! But in fairness, that was not the Freelander’s fault, the Discovery we were with at the time had the same issue; that was pure ignorance—we hadn’t read the part of the book that said you cannot ride the dunes in the middle of the day: sand melts like butter, you just sink in!

We had the guide books which specifically mentioned not to try crossing the Sahara in a Freelander. At the edge of the desert they told us not to try in a Freelander, it was too small a 4×4. We ignored them all! It wasn’t that we were reckless—we still had the sense to hire a support vehicle and guide—we were keen to experience just what the Freelander was really capable of.

Driving the Sahara was challenging. We had to take a different approach compared to the big 4×4’s because we didn’t have the same ground clearance or power. However, with the help of added traction from using the hill descent control (HDC), even on the flat, and keeping our speed up to ride the sand, we achieved what—judging by the abandoned vehicles, including Defenders, which littered the sand—others clearly had not. When we emerged from the sand on the other side a few days later our support vehicle driver and guide were shaking our hands, saying “good car”, “good driver.”

You want to overland to the beach? The Freelander can cope.

After the Sahara, we went to the other extreme: overlanding Knapsack around Iceland in winter whilst camping in our newly acquired roof tent. Yes, it was cold! If you put a drink on the ground for the five to ten minutes it took to set up the roof tent, it froze solid. We convoyed with a Defender on this trip and I have to say, the Freelander held the road better—the importance of having the correct tyres. There was only one very rough road, on the way back from watching the humpback whales feeding, where the ruts were a little too deep; that’s where we saw the advantage the Defender had over the Freelander—ground clearance. However, we had a massive advantage on the open road when the Defender windscreen wipers were freezing solid in mid motion—no problem with the Freelander and its heated windscreen—we were smiling!

You want to overland in the snow-covered mountains? The Freelander can cope.

Going to the extremes may not be your goal, but in doing so, we have repeatedly demonstrated that whatever overlanding adventure is calling you, a Freelander 1 will take you there and bring you back.

CAMEL TROPHY – ULTIMATE OVERLANDING. HOW DID THE FREELANDER 1 FARE?

The Camel Trophy was the ultimate Land Rover overlanding discipline, and in 1998 twenty Freelander 1’s were put to the challenge in Tierra del Fuego, the Land of the Fire. This was over 3,000 miles of adventure, between Santiago, Chile, and Ushuaia, Argentina—the southernmost city in the world—a greater distance than any other Camel Trophy event.

Each team had a supporting Defender 110, laden with adventure equipment including canoes, bikes, snowshoes, skis, and snowboards. If the organisers weren’t convinced of the Freelander’s capabilities before the event, they would soon learn how unstoppable they really are. When negotiating a mud track, the Portuguese team had no issues. Their supporting Defender, on the other hand, became stuck. The American team also had issues with their Defenders needing assistance—perhaps overlanding in a Freelander is not the first option to spring to mind, but the best option!

The Camel Trophy Club’s analysis of the 1998 event was, “The Freelander vindicated Land Rover’s conviction that it was a suitable vehicle for the event. It was fast and agile and sailed along the snow tracks, performing with a spirit that could not be imitated by the support Defender. In the mud the situation was more or less similar. Even so, the “porter” can argue in its defence that it was loaded with tonnes of equipment, that the small-booted Freelander could never have carried. Nevertheless, the American team still lost several bags (containing food, clothing and a large sum of currency) from the roof rack of the support vehicle.”

ARE ALL FREELANDER 1’s THE SAME?

The Freelander 1 was launched in 1997 and production ended in 2006. All Freelander 1’s are not built the same. In fact, there are four completely different engines to choose from, each of which were available in either the five-door station wagon or the three-door convertible model (even though, in practice, it really takes two people to remove the roof and then a big space to store it whilst you go for a drive).

Freelander DI, XDI, XEDI (1997-2006) The original diesel Freelander was badged as a DI, XDI or XEDI, and has the Rover L-Series 2.0-litre diesel engine—you will often hear this referred to as the L-Series Freelander. All L-Series Freelanders come with a manual gearbox.

Freelander 1.8i, Xi, XEi (1997-2006) The Freelander 1.8i (Xi or XEi) was the first petrol-engined Freelander, and, as the name suggests, it is a 1.8-litre engine, built by Rover (their K-Series engine). Generally you will hear this referred to as the 1.8 Freelander. All 1.8 Freelanders come with a manual gearbox.

In 2001, Land Rover introduced two new Freelanders:

Freelander TD4 (2001-2006) The TD4 Freelander has a 2.0-litre diesel engine produced by BMW, their M47 engine. Although not as prolific as the manual version, the TD4 Freelander is available with an automatic gearbox.

Freelander V6 (2001-2006) The V6 Freelander is another K-Series Rover engine, the 2.5-litre KV6. Unlike the rest of the Freelander 1 range, the V6 Freelander is only available with an automatic gearbox because it was predominantly developed for the American market, even though it was available across the rest of the world.

The 4×4 system on the Freelander (now we’re on to the important stuff for overlanding) is an active-on-demand system. This means you do not manually select the 4×4 mode. Instead, the Freelander will determine when you need to engage 4×4 (for example, if one of the wheels is slipping) and engage it for you, automatically. Although there are some slight differences in the make-up of the components for the different Freelander 1’s, the principle of the system is the same for all models; a front Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD—equivalent to a transfer box); a central viscous coupling unit (VCU); and a rear differential (quite clearly at the rear).

One thing which is identical for all the Freelander 1’s is that they are now officially a classic car.

WHICH FREELANDER IS BEST FOR OVERLANDING?

The L-Series diesel Freelander, with its old-style diesel engine, and minimal sensors, is an absolute workhorse. If this was the only engine in the Freelander range, freelanderspecialist.com would be out of business! It was the choice for the Camel Trophy in 1998 (but it is worth remembering that the TD4 and the V6 had not been produced at this time)—and it has been our own choice for our overlanding adventures. The beauty of the L-Series Freelander is the robustness of the engine and the lack of sensors—less to go wrong when you are in the middle of the Sahara desert. Generally, even if you have issues—and we have had some major ones on our travels—the L-Series will still get you home.

Now we get to the 1.8 petrol Freelander. Unfortunately, we do believe this is the culprit which caused all Freelanders to have a bit of a bad reputation. But is it really the fault of the Freelander? The Rover 1.8 K-Series engine is a magnificent piece of engineering, used extensively in racing for its incredible lightness. It did, however, have an initial design fault; the cylinder head gasket was just too flimsy for the Freelander and the use of plastic dowels did not help. This has caused pretty much every 1.8 Freelander to blow the head gasket, usually by 70,000 miles (120,000 km). But a solution was soon found in the form of a modified multi-layer steel head gasket with steel dowels. Fitted properly, all the problems go away. The beauty of the 1.8 Freelander for overlanding lies in its simplicity; it is by far the easiest of the Freelander 1’s to work on (if unfortunate enough to be required) whilst in the middle of nowhere.

The TD4 diesel Freelander is probably the most popular of the range. This is a much more complex engine than the L-Series diesel, and hence, as with any modern vehicle, does tend to have a few more issues—many of which are caused by sensors! If you are overlanding in remote places for long periods of time this may cause you a problem, however, if you are travelling closer to home and humanity, then the TD4 Freelander is a great option. It is less agricultural than the L-Series Freelander which translates to a better driving experience.

The final Freelander is the V6 petrol Freelander. The powerful one. A beast of an engine which really does need a specialist and specialist tools to fix. This one will put a smile on your face as you drive down the road, but will it get you where you want to go? The V6 Freelander is extremely capable, but unless you are a competent mechanic with experience of these engines, it may not be the most sensible choice to take one into extremely harsh and remote conditions. If you want more local overlanding, with the power you need, when you need it, this is a great choice.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR WHEN BUYING A FREELANDER 1?

If you are looking to buy any vehicle, you should be aware of the problems that tend to be common to it, and Land Rover Freelanders are no different. So here are some of the things you should look out for:

• If you are buying a 1.8 petrol Freelander be aware that the original head gaskets, at best, generally only last 70,000 miles (120,000 km), and often fail well before this. Check if the head gasket has been replaced. If it has, find out if it was replaced with a modified/uprated multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket, and not another original single-layer gasket—as this will fail again after another 70,000 miles (120,000 km). If the head gasket has not been changed, then budget into the cost of your purchase the fact that you will need to have this done.

• The viscous coupling unit (VCU) on a Freelander is in the centre of the prop shaft and makes up part of the drive train delivering power to the rear wheels. This is a sealed unit containing a viscous fluid which has a life span of about 70,000 miles (120,000 km). If the viscous coupling unit (VCU) is not replaced regularly every 70,000 miles (120,000 km), you risk damage to the rest of the drive train—the IRD (transfer box), rear differential, and possibly even the gearbox. Check if the viscous coupling unit (VCU) has been replaced in a timely manner, if it has not, then you will need to budget for a new or reconditioned viscous coupling unit (VCU)—don’t be tempted to think it will be OK, the possible damage that can be caused by not replacing this unit can be very costly.

• Make sure the Freelander has a prop shaft fitted. Many Freelanders have had the prop shaft removed—generally because damage was already starting to happen to the drivetrain due to the viscous coupling unit (VCU) not being changed. The prop shaft runs underneath the vehicle, parallel to the exhaust; it is worth getting down on the floor and making sure it is there. If the prop shaft is missing and you are wanting the Freelander for overlanding, we would suggest you walk away!

• A Freelander is an active-on-demand four-wheel drive. At the front, connected to the gearbox is the IRD unit (transfer box), which connects to the prop shaft containing the viscous coupling unit (VCU) into the rear differential at the back. Check underneath the Freelander to see if there are any leaks coming from the IRD unit (transfer box) or the rear differential. When you test drive the Freelander listen for any clonking, whining or vibrations—these could indicate problems along the drive train. In particular, test the Freelander turning corners on full lock, both in forward drive and reverse—this is when any clonking or holding back will become most apparent. If the Freelander feels as though it is holding back, this is generally an indication of the viscous coupling unit (VCU) being past its useable life. If there is clonking from the front of the Freelander, this could indicate a problem with the IRD unit (transfer box). If there is a clonking or whining from the rear of the Freelander, this could be a sign of problems with the rear differential or the rear differential bushes.

• Check the tyres Are they all the same make, model, tread depth remaining and air pressure? Mismatched tyres can cause a lot of damage along the drivetrain of a Freelander. If there is any mismatch, get it sorted straight away—or walk away!

• The cam/timing belt The cam/timing belt on a Freelander (not the TD4, as this has a timing chain) should be replaced every 72,000 miles (120,000 km) or 6 years, whichever comes first. If the Freelander you are purchasing is over this mileage then check if the cam/timing belt has been replaced. This is not a cheap job on the 2.5-litre petrol V6 models, so make sure you budget for it, if it needs doing. Once again, don’t ignore its importance: a snapped cam/timing belt can completely destroy your engine.

• Check the coolant in the Freelander and the coolant reservoir. The coolant should be red or orange. If it is green or blue then it is probably wise to walk away, particularly if the Freelander is petrol—these coolants do not have the Organic Acid Technology (OAT) needed to protect the Freelander system from rusting. Also remove the coolant reservoir cap and check for hairline cracks around the neck—if any are present then budget on changing the coolant reservoir and cap.

• Warning lights There are three main warning lights on a Freelander that are often illuminated—much of the time all three of them are on together (affectionately—or is it frustratingly—referred to as the three amigos). These are the hill descent control light, the traction control light, and the ABS light. Very often these illuminate because of issues with sensors—the brake light switch; a wheel speed sensor, or a chaffed wire under the gearstick gaiter—but be aware, if it is not one of the common culprits, it can be difficult, and hence costly, to determine the source of the problem.

• Electrics When you purchase a Freelander it is always worth checking if the electrics operate correctly. If your Freelander has a sunroof, don’t be surprised if it doesn’t work—these often go wrong. If it does work then think yourself lucky and make sure you open and close it regularly so it does not seize up. If it doesn’t work the best thing is to make sure it is properly sealed, take the fuse out so you don’t accidentally try to open it and end up with a half-open sunroof that you can’t get closed again, then forget you ever had one. Check if all the electric windows and central locking works, remembering that the rear tailgate window is also electric. All vehicles have issues inherent to their model, the key is to be aware of them and make sure when you are buying your Freelander you know what repair or servicing work may need doing to it soon after purchase, so you can factor it in when deciding if the price is right.

EQUIPPING YOUR FREELANDER 1 FOR OVERLANDING

So, you are going overlanding and, of course, you want to look like an overlander. How you equip your Freelander for overlanding really depends on how deep your pockets are. The real beauty of the Freelander is you do not have to equip it with anything.

On our maiden journey, across the Sahara, where all the books and people told us a Freelander could not go, our Freelander was absolutely standard. No fancy lift kit; no uprated clutch; a standard tent and some plastic boxes with our supplies in. Did we make it where no man said we could? We most certainly did, and don’t forget, they shook our hands when we came out the other side, saying “good car.”

Nowadays we have a roof tent (fitted in time to go to Iceland in winter); we have a 270-degree awning with all the extensions; we have water on the roof tapped down to the rear of the car; storage drawers in the back (we removed the rear seats for these—love them!); a fridge freezer; solar panel—we even put electric bikes on a bike rack attached to the tow ball.

Yes, we are very loaded for a Freelander, but he still performs. The roof capacity is 75 kg and he handles a roof rack with roof tent, water container and storage box with no issues.

In terms of modifications, we now have a 40 mm lift kit fitted. If you choose to install a 50 mm lift kit, be aware you will need to always have genuine Land Rover driveshafts, which can be horrendously expensive; an uprated clutch (definitely a good move after nearly burning the clutch out on the sand dunes); uprated clutch hydraulics, which can be bled; and, well, very little else actually. The original design of the Freelander is good enough.

What are the best things we have done? The best thing we have is something I have not even mentioned yet, and that is our chairs. A comfortable chair is a must, don’t skimp on the chair! Get yourself some good chairs, then add the rest as you go.

PREPARING YOUR FREELANDER 1 FOR OVERLANDING

If you are about to set off on an overland trip with your Freelander, there are a few things worth doing before you depart.

The obvious thing is to get it serviced, however do a bit of forward thinking and service it 10 days to two weeks before you go, rather than immediately before setting off.

If you have a 1.8 Freelander, it is worth getting the adaption kit to reposition the thermostat to the front of the engine, if it is not already fitted there—just make sure you blank the thermostat at the rear of the engine.

The low pressure fuel pump on the TD4 Freelander has a shorter life span than would be ideal, so it could be worth carrying a spare. However, the major issue with the TD4 is failure to replace the crankcase breather filter when the Freelander is serviced. We generally only see this problem when the Freelander has been serviced by a generalist garage, as some do not realise this filter exists (it is tucked away at the rear of the engine) and fail to change it. There is an oil separator available from BMW which can replace the crankcase breather filter and hence eliminates this issue—definitely worth fitting.

As the name implies the V6 Freelander has a six-cylinder V engine. The main issue with these engines is that the thermostat is in the centre of the V—where all the heat is—and is encased in a plastic housing. This means it can be prone to leaking. In itself, changing a thermostat is not such a big deal, however, if you do not notice the loss of coolant this can result in head gasket failure, which on this engine is a big job. So check your coolant level regularly, or there is a metal thermostat upgrade available which will eliminate the issue—worth fitting if you are going to do serious overlanding with the V6 Freelander.

Have you noticed the lack of comments on the L-Series Freelander? Just get in it and drive! Although, having said that, both the 1.8 and the L-Series do benefit from the Sheddist clutch hydraulics—these are bleedable, unlike the originals.

One of the most important things when you are overlanding with your Freelander is your tyres—at the end of the day, these are what will keep you on, or off, the road. Make sure you select tyres to suit the terrain you expect to encounter. If the terrain is not severe, then fit good all-terrain tyres.

Make sure you take spare fluids (and I don’t mean beer and whisky—although we have been known to put gin and tonic in a cooling system before in the African bush when we ran out of water), particularly coolant and oil.
When it comes to packing tools, again consider the type of overlanding you are doing. If you are going on rough terrain then your issues are more likely to come from the suspension, so make sure you have the tooling to deal with it—we had a driveshaft issue in Iceland and managed to transport a replacement driveshaft from the UK only to realise we did not have the tooling to replace it. We had to limp around a number of garages before we found one prepared to lend the tools to us.

In amongst the excitement of going on your adventure, don’t forget to take any special equipment you might need for the climate, such as snow chains. However, probably more important, make sure you know how to use them before you go! Having been pushed off the road into an invisible ditch (don’t ask!) by a snow plough in the Artic Circle, even the snow plough could not get enough traction to pull us out. We needed the help of our snow chains, but yes, you guessed it, we had not practiced at home and in the heat of the moment (heat? No, it was extremely cold) figuring out the instructions was impossible. Fortunately a knight in shining armour (or was it a snow suit?) came along and fitted them for us.

SO, SHOULD YOU RUN OUT AND BUY A FREELANDER 1 FOR OVERLANDING?

Yes. Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes! These are superb vehicles, but make sure you understand them—you will fall in love! They are exceedingly capable and we have personally shown they will go practically anywhere the big boys will go.

So what are you waiting for?

FREELANDERSPECIALIST.COM

Text & images: Sue Maddock

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More than three decades later, the success continues. Now in its 5th generation, it seemed almost impossible to perfect something that is, to all intents and purposes, close to being a perfect vehicle. That is until the specialists at Matzker, in Cologne, accepted the challenge. After all, if you have ever had the opportunity to meet the team, then you will already be aware of their motto: “good just isn’t enough when the best is within grasping distance.”

Matzker, now in their fourth decade, is synonymous with the development and manufacture of technology and accessories related to the Land Rover brand. So, unsurprisingly, they took it upon themselves to address the already impressive factory performance of the new Discovery and take it to the next level.

HANDLING AND PERFORMANCE

The foundation of this transformation is their own dc8 package which primarily addresses the suspension and engine performance. The electronic handling and off-road kit enhances the variable height suspension by taking it 28 mm lower on the road and an extra 30 mm higher off pavement.

The suspension modifications are further improved thanks to a Selective-Control-Shock Absorber which represents state of the art technology and was specifically designed for the Discovery 5. The system is adaptive and responds accurately in accordance to the terrain. As a result, comfort is improved without compromising stability and precision through the serpentines. The suspension becomes more flexible which in turn equates to more wheel travel and axle articulation. Offroad traction is simply mind-blowing! On the road, it is no less impressive and excels with improved safety thanks to minimising the typically inherent 4×4 sway. The dc8 package blends sports car agility with maximised safety.

It would be a shame if this dynamic improvement couldn’t be put to proper use. So, Matzker have used their TR-6 tuning option and reprogrammed the 3.0 L six cylinder engine to produce an additional 45 BHP and 70 Nm of torque compared to the stock setup. You now have 303 BHP and 670 Nm at your disposal. Once you have driven this package, you will never want to look back. This Discovery wants to be the leader of the pack.

The full potential of top speed has been unleashed by Matzker’s Speed Unlimiter. This means that the abrupt activation of the limiter, and the accompanying shudder, is now a thing of the past.

PROTECT AND SALVAGE

As far as improved off-road ability is concerned, a 3-piece skid plate made from durable aircraft aluminium reliably protects the front axle and gearbox from inadvertent damage. This off-road accessory is essential for more than just the occasional elusive river crossing.

The front valance hides a winch for those most daunting situations. This solution has the benefit of neither worsening the approach angle nor altering the overall dimensions of the vehicle. The fairlead is positioned below the registration plate to facilitate quick operation without adversely effecting the car’s day to day use. The winch can pull up to 3.600 kg and is equipped with 30 metres of synthetic rope.

GOING THE DISTANCE

Matzker has even addressed the operating radius of the vehicle – more practical for everyday use and imperative for long distance travel. An additional 90 litre fuel tank now fills the space previously occupied by the spare wheel. Now the vehicle can carry a total of 175 litres of fuel which equates to a distance of approximately 1.600 km (depending upon the terrain). In line with all of Matzker’s developments, the additional tank for the Discovery 5 is of premium quality and maximises the use of existing space.

ENLIGHTENED

To complete the conversion, the Matzker dc8 Discovery is LED equipped for every eventuality: four round lamps in the radiator grille are complimented by a 1.000 mm LED light bar which combines an 8° long-distance driving lamp a 120° broad beam for shorter distances.

CONCLUSION

An impressive vehicle. Time to explore the world!

MATZKER.DE

Now imagine what Matzker can do with the New Defender … sign up below and be the first to learn about their latest developments as we release them.

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A NEW INTERNATIONAL PLAYER

Founded in the Czech Republic in 2016, TORSUS makes a bold claim to build the world’s toughest heavy-duty off-road buses. Initially, the company’s focus was directed towards the mining industry: an inhospitable, harsh and punishing environment for man and machine. As far as any automotive manufacturer is concerned, the environmental and mechanical duress imposed upon vehicles in mines, above and below the earth’s crust, pose destructive and life-limiting challenges. Challenges the development team at TORSUS made their own when they set out to produce crew buses capable of reliably mastering their occupational circumstances and transporting passengers safely. Day in, day out.

Currently, TORSUS offers two models, Terrastorm and Praetorian, respectively based upon the MAN TGE and TGM. The partnership with MAN reassures customers with tried-and-tested technology and an extensive global service network.

Both platforms have solid credentials and offer potential for travel. So, when TORSUS called and invited us to put their latest developments to the test on a military proving ground near Prague with the promise of mud pits, corrugations, steep inclines, and cross-axle challenges, well…one word: absolutely!

PART 1: TERRASTORM

Walking around the Terrastorm, the rear and side views leave little doubt as to its heritage. The front, on the other hand, still bears the factory silhouette but with some facelift surgery setting it apart from its TGE brothers and Crafter cousins. Other than the TORSUS logo embellishing the grill, the brand’s signature manifests itself beneath the waistline with two offset pairs of additional driving lights integrated into the sculpted valance.

EXTERIOR ACCESSORIES

Depending upon Terrastorm’s intended employment—which can range from panel van to bus or ambulance—the exterior upgrades include:

• FRONT BUSH BAR Robust enough to clear a path through the undergrowth (and imposing enough to part urban traffic like an old man’s staff the Red Sea).
• PROTECTIVE GRILLES on the rear light clusters
• STURDY LADDER bolted to the left rear door provides easy access to the roof and doubles as the spare wheel carrier
• WINCH, mounted behind the front spoiler
• DELTA ALUMINIUM OFF-ROAD WHEELS shod with BF Goodrich 265/70 R17 AT tyres
• SIDE STEPS
• DURABLE LINE-X™ PROTECTION to the lower body panels

On the face of it, this could just be one of many cosmetically styled vans in the sense of more show, less go…if it weren’t for some significant improvements inside the wheel arches and beneath the chassis:

• RALLY-PROVEN SUSPENSION
• 110 MM LIFT
• FULL-LENGTH ALUMINIUM PLATE UNDERBODY ARMOUR Protecting the sump, drivetrain, and rear differential.

INTERIOR

We had two Terrastorms at our disposal: Ambulance and Coach. Both specified with the H3 roof offering an interior height of approx. 1.83 m.

The First Responder Ambulance is designed for emergency services working under extreme weather conditions and in difficult terrain. Fully equipped for surgery, complete with self-levelling gurney, the interior can be custom configured.

Opening the sliding door of the Coach, I am welcomed by an interior full of promise. It’s hard to overlook the passenger seating fitted with five-point harnesses. There is no doubt that this bus has been built to deploy mining crews or emergency teams into difficult terrain, potentially at speed.

TORSUS fits the interiors of all their passenger vehicles with insulation panels, over-seat storage with reading light consoles, and a multi-purpose floor system with integrated airline rails. The latter makes the interior as versatile as your imagination—quick release locks facilitate moving seats into different configurations. Add tables, increase/reduce the luggage bay volume, install equipment, workbenches or anything else you might need in the knowledge that, regardless of the route you have chosen, everything is going to stay exactly where you put it even in the event of a collision.

The interior is robust yet comfortable, aesthetically crafted and versatile. The leather and Alcantara upholstered seats lend an air of luxury.

What you don’t see are the integrated roll bars hidden behind the covering panels of the B and C pillars. A huge safety improvement for those shit-happens moments.

DRIVING EXPERIENCE

The powertrain comprises a four-cylinder 2.0-litre biturbo E6 diesel producing 177 BHP and 410 Nm at 1,500 – 2,000 RPM driving through an 8-speed torque converter automatic gearbox (as opposed to a DSG box with clutch) and smart all-wheel drive with an electronically activated mechanical central diff lock. A 6-speed manual gearbox is optional.

The MAN smart all-wheel drive permanently monitors driving conditions and can transfer the driving torque between the front and rear axles as required in 0.084 seconds. Torque distribution between the axles (without the central diff lock) ranges from 0 to 100%.

The TORSUS Terrastorm gives the overall impression of being smaller than it really is when driving off pavement. This is partially down to the electromechanical power steering which makes it “feel” more like a car than a 5.5 ton van. Just remember to keep an eye out for low hanging branches.

It had been raining for several days before we arrived, so there was plenty of water and soft glutenous clay-based mud to look forward to. After a brief drive to accustomise, the first hurdle was a series of deep cross-axle gullies. The increased ground clearance providing increased approach and departure angles was beneficial and, with the front right wheel pawing the air, the combination of central diff lock, ASR and some left-foot braking kept the vehicle moving forwards.

The mountain goat-like ability to overcome steep inclines and descents can be attributed to the blend of ample torque at low revs, automatic gearbox, all-wheel drive, and the diff lock. Under the premise of driving as slow as possible and as fast as necessary, the Terrastorm behaved predictably.

But Terrastorm really excels when pushed to the limits. The new suspension setup, increased ground clearance, extended wheel travel, and highly responsive steering equates to comfort and control at speeds I wasn’t expecting from a vehicle in this class. Fast cornering on muddy, corrugated surfaces led to controlled drifts without chatter in the steering or tramping of the wheels. Even when running across ruts and potholes, Terrastorm’s behaviour is impressive and a far cry from factory Crafters and TGEs.

OVERLANDING

TORSUS presented a camper conversion kit, including an awning, for the Terrastorm which, thanks to the floor consoles, turns a week-time workhorse into a recreation vehicle within minutes. As much as this may be useful for weekend getaways or an adventure vacation, I see a lot of merit in converting either a Cargo or Coach into a fully fledged overland truck.

CONCLUSION

With Terrastorm, TORSUS have successfully improved an already interesting platform. As far as spaciousness, comfort, drivetrain, off-road capability, a global service network and an ongoing programme of off-the-shelf accessories is concerned, all the boxes have been ticked. All modifications have been sanctioned by MAN so the factory warranty still applies.

Finally, the starting price of €59,500 for the Terrastorm Cargo 4×4 H3 including 8-speed automatic gearbox, underbody armour, side steps, integrated roll bars, ladder/spare wheel carrier, optimised suspension, winch, and Delta wheels fitted with A/T tyres, is a game changer.

Yes, the TORSUS Terrastorm is a strong contender for overlanding and van life.

torsus.eu

Editor’s note: Watch out for Part 2: Praetorian

SPECIFICATIONS

TORSUS Terrastorm based on MAN TGE or TGM

Technical Data
Approach angle: 26°
Departure angle: 20°
Breakover angle: 11°
Fording depth: 820 mm
Side slope: 28°
Gradient slope: 65% | 33°
Overall length: 6400 mm
Height: 2880 mm
Width: 2440 mm
Ground clearance: 290 mm

Photography by Tristan Brailey

The post Are TORSUS Vans and Buses 
an Alternative for Overlanding? appeared first on overland-europe.

Has the King lost his crown? As predator adventure motorcycle brands bite at the heels of BMW’s 35-year-old adventure bike series, will the company have to stand aside to allow newer, savvier brands into the number one spot. Has the momentum triggered by the Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman combo finally lost its thrust?

These sentiments seem to get rolled out following the announcement of any new kid (or even old kid) on the block and can oft be found in many of the regular motorcycle press offerings. The fast moving Austrians continue to expand (some say confuse) their KTM adventure bike range, while Ducati, Triumph, Honda et al, all have highly credible alternative overland bikes ready to de-throne BMW’s GS.

So do these headline stealing one-liners hold an element of truth? After all, when all’s said and done, the BMW’s “boxer” engine is pretty long in the tooth. Its basic design harks back to the 1920’s. Add to this the occasional critical comment, “too heavy”, “too big”, “too hyped”—and perhaps we are witnessing an overdue change to the leader board? A position BMW have held, many would argue, since the launch of the BMW R80 G/S over thirty-five years ago.

But hey, let’s just fix that stuck record, let’s wind back that brass neck, take in a little history and more importantly examine todays new R1200 GS Rallye, out in a shop near you come March 2017.

THE BMW DYNASTY

Back in the late seventies, motorcycle sales for BMW were slacking, while the Japanese were, as they say stateside, kicking some ass! The boxer engine—famously a two cylinder horizontally opposed design, although respected, was seen by many as too “conservative”, too “dated”. Then, when BMW management decided to develop the enduro and sporting aspects of their bikes, winning various gold medals and event titles—including the highly regarding Six Day Trials—in the process, the press grudgingly recognised that BMW were perhaps on to something. The trouble was, no-one was entirely sure as to what that something was?

Taking the success of the off-road capabilities and supplanting these ideas and designs into a new ‘all-rounder’ resulted in a multi-purpose bike hailed as the magic solution to waning sales. Still, this format went against popular thinking and was initially criticised as a compromise bike—neither a tourer, nor an off-roader.

BMW held their nerve. The BMW R80 G/S was launched to the world in Avignon, France, on 1 September 1980. It stole the show with a sales tag line of:

“Sports machine, touring machine, enduro… Welcome to a motorcycle concept with more than one string to its bow.”

BMW have never really looked back and interestingly you could use that same tag line today as the 21st century GS range has gone from strength to strength, offering a bike that could travel the highways, the byways and the dirt tracks and trails of the world. That said, the relative success of BMW’s adventure motorcycles in the 80’s/90’s existed in a market that remained somewhat niche.

Then in 2004 along came two British actors, Ewan McGregor (Trainspotting and Star Wars fame) and Charley Boorman (The Emerald Forest and son of Hollywood Director, John Boorman—Deliverance, Excalibur and Point Blank) who gave an extra twist to the brands story after riding from London to New York using the BMW R1150 GS Adventure bike and in doing so created one of the most successful motorcycle travel documentaries ever made; the multiple award winning Long Way Round.

Many argue that this documentary helped push open the doors to adventure motorcycle travel, encouraging Mr and Mrs Average, to break the mould, buy a motorcycle and travel the world. That said, although the importance of the documentary in the growth of the adventure motorcycle genre had its detractors, Charley and Ewan both felt, too humbly perhaps, that they were simply in the right place at the right time.

Boorman’s personal view is…

“Well, if a pair of bloody actors can ride around the world, anyone can. We messed up lots of times and learnt from our mistakes. I think our message was really, any bike, any destination—just do it and have fun.”

Nevertheless, following the documentary, motorcycle sales across the adventure sector increased by a figure rumoured to be in excess of 60%.

The BMW GS brand had become synonymous with adventure travel, taking both bike and rider beyond borders and to the very edge of their capabilities.

THE NEW GS

The 2017 incarnation of the bike has two specific identities—the Exclusive and the Rallye. While both bikes retain that distinctive GS look, in simple terms, the Exclusive is the road focussed edition, having a relatively low key look, a non aggressive stance, with sleek lines, cast wheels and attractive subtle colour schemes—metallic matt chocolate browns and greys with gold finished brake calipers.

In contrast, the Rallye is flash. It has a menacing glint in it’s eye and just overflows with adventurous character. Set off with wide aggressive looking foot pegs, knobbly tires on cross spoke wheels and short enduro type windshield. It really does look a picture, focussed clearly on adventure and promising significant off-road ability.

What helps the Rallye stand out visually is the strong blues of the tank and beak (Lupine Blue) together with the Cordoba Blue of the frame—this contrasting frame paint is perhaps an idea copied from Austrian rivals? For those of you who remember the now discontinued BMW HP2 Enduro, you may find at least some visual similarities.

The off-road bias of the Rallye is strengthened with stiffer spring rates, longer spring struts and extra travel. Add to this, the flattened Rallye seat, giving you room to adjust body weight easily when off road, radiator and frame guards and on this particular bike, an optional Akrapovic exhaust.

Strangely, the Rallye looks lighter than it is, especially considering that both bikes are now Euro 4 compliant which in essence means beefier (heavier) catalytic converters.

THE RIDE

My interest was blatantly the Rallye, although I rode both bikes and was pretty impressed with the Exclusive edition on the twisty mountain roads of southern Spain. However, when we went up into the hills, across rivers and sandy trails, as well as rocky climbs and fast gravel tracks—the Rallye really excelled.

The bikes performance and capability off-road is admittedly surprising for a weigh in of 244 kilos, and what’s more incredible is the bike doesn’t actually feel heavy. Standing on the meaty wide foot pegs really makes you feel planted on the bike and within a very short space of time, I found I was riding it like an enduro bike. The bike had optional Continental TKC 80 knobbly tires, together with the longest set of add on options you can imagine—from flat enduro seat to engine bars, a robust sump guard, hand guards and adjustable foot brake pedal. I guess like many new bikes now, the options and accessory lists are comprehensive and can hike the price up considerably—the standard price comes in at €15,150 before you’re let loose with the wish list, so depending on how flush you are, you could be coming out the other end at around €20k plus.

The standard Rallye has two riding modes—Road and Rain. However, with the addition of the optional “Riding Modes Pro” package, you get 4 more; Dynamic, Dynamic Pro, Enduro and Enduro Pro. If your plan is to use the Rallye “properly” and take it somewhere adventurous, then you’ll definitely want this package!

Having the bike in Enduro Mode gives you a great deal of confidence riding off road. The electronics will soften your throttle response, give you off-road ABS, allow automatic adjustment of the suspension while at the same time regulate the level of tractions control to suit the off-road environment. It means you can scream around a gravel bend and give it a reasonable handful of throttle, with only a “limited” amount of slide and wheel spin. The traction control just kicks in to stop you over doing it—as Goldilocks said, “It’s just right!”

If you’re an experienced off-road rider, then Enduro Mode Pro will be your choice. This mode is designed for knobbly tires, and allows you to customise the amount of “automatic” intervention across most functions. Also, ABS is removed from the rear wheel, which means you can lock that back wheel as part of your riding “style” and use it—if you’re good enough—to steer the bike.

The electronics on this bike are impressive, effective and easy to manage. Changing modes on the fly is simple and accomplished at the press of a button and a quick backing off of the throttle. The technology is not necessarily visible to the rider, but there’s a lot going on behind the scenes, all supporting your riding and your safety.

RIDING MODES

Rain
Gentle throttle, DTC early intervention

Road
Optimum throttle, optimum DTC

Dynamic
Direct throttle, drifting possible with skilled rider

Dynamic Pro
Fully customisable

Enduro
Gentle throttle, DTC more spin possible & off-road ABS

Enduro Pro
Fully customisable, knobbly tyres, no ABS on rear wheel

A few hours into my test ride and the Rallye was inspiring. It actually made me feel like a more advanced rider. At one stage I railed around a thick gravel bend, the front wheel planted nicely, body weight forward and peg weight to the outside, I was brimming with confidence. Then directly in front of me, as if out of nowhere, there were three, four, maybe five substantial water filled pot holes right on my line. The decision was made to throttle through, look to the exit and hang on tight! A good call as the tougher, off-road suspension just swallowed up the problems. Immediately, thoughts of Dakar 2018 flashed into my mind—delusional, for sure. I had to tell myself off, calm down, and yes—slow down. Thankfully, the bike handles so well and is very forgiving.

Whilst I was writing this article a friend out in Australia mailed me looking for some advice.

“I’m not sure what to do, to order the new Rallye or bite the bullet and get the R1200 GS Adventure, what do you reckon Billy?”

Don’t be confused and see the R1200 GS Rallye as a half-way house to its bigger brother, the R1200 GS Adventure. To do this would be a disservice to the Rallye. The Rallye is a destination bike, it’s the product of an incredible dynasty and can stand alone as a bike of choice, not a poorer sibling to the R1200 GS Adventure model.

Like many things in life, the choice here is about horses for courses. The Rallye is an outstanding bike, but a different bike than the GS Adventure, so you need to get your objectives right, your desires and plans and match them with the right bike. Personally? I’d buy both!

HAS THE CROWN BEEN TAKEN?

From the performance, the looks and the versatility of the new R1200 GS, together with state of the art electronics, the crown appears to be firmly cemented in place and rumours of the King’s demise have been grossly over-stated.

The GS Rallye not only performs like that mile crunching, world beating brand-name suggests, but the bike, in the right hands, absolutely excels in even challenging off-road situations. I would agree that some off-road training would help you squeeze the best out of this side of the bike, but it really does perform extraordinary well for a multipurpose machine, so getting a little bit more skill and building your confidence at a school would be fun and extremely rewarding, not just for your off-roading ability but right across your riding skillset.

This off-road credibility may not win over the small-bike aficionados, but really it’s about choice and to have a bike that can cruise leisurely and comfortably along autobahns for hours on end, eat up twisty country lanes at sports bike speeds with sports bike handling, while at the same time speeding through forests, wiggling through sandy trails and literally devouring the gravel tracks of Africa—there isn’t really an argument to be had—is there?

MEETING THE BMW BOFFINS

I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to talk to some of the senior BMW designers and product managers at the new GS launch—they’re all bikers by the way, replete with tattoos, beards and earrings—seriously! I expected men in white coats and sandals, but I got sideburns, boots and leather jackets. Bikes built by bikers for bikers. The success of the GS? It all makes sense now.

The discussion got onto the increased use of technology within motorcycle design and whether, like cars we’ll be seeing the development of an ‘autonomous’ motorcycle? Their answer was reassuring and extremely interesting…

“…I think we will continue to see increasing developments with intelligent technologies, but this won’t lead to autonomous bikes—that doesn’t make sense. No, I see motorcycles using technology to intelligently communicate with other road vehicles alerting them to your presence and increasing levels of road safety like we’ve never seen before.”

Motorcycles are currently using multiple sensors to determine lean angles, speed, braking force and suspension stresses etc. All of this data is used in “intelligent” bike performance, interoperating with ABS, Dynamic Traction Control (DTC) and Electronic Suspension Adjustment (ESA) etc., as we find in the GS Rallye.

But going forward we’re going to see the integration of these and related intelligent technologies focussing on vehicle to vehicle background communications. Vehicles (motorcycles and cars) will be “aware” of each others presence, velocity and trajectory. This technology will trigger alerts and perhaps even take independent action to avoid an accident. Vehicles may also communicate with traffic lights, road crossings and even intersections and buildings. While these technologies will increase motorcycle safety, they may also present us with challenges. Where should we draw the line between the freedom of the ride and the influence, interaction and possibly intervention of intelligent technologies? Perhaps this is a discussion for a future date.

TO ROUND UP

So is the top tier offering by BMW under threat from other brands? Of course it is, but this is healthy and keeps us all moving forward. However, BMW does have a quality heritage, an enviable track record and a great understanding of the adventure market place, while some of the competitors are still having to prove themselves. The adventure market still seems to have good momentum, likely only squeezed by the current success of the “classic/retro” genre, highlighted by Triumph’s Bonneville derivatives, Ducati’s Scrambler and BMW’s own RnineT.

I don’t believe another McGregor/Boorman injection is required. The new R1200 launch will undoubtedly be a success and the significant updates and choice between the more off-grid Rallye and the road biased Exclusive will cater for everyone.

BMW’s vision, their knowledge and understanding of the industry and their use of emerging technologies has kept them up in the number one spot. I can only expect them to continue to deliver world beating credible models, harnessing new technology that helps keep motorcycling exciting, while at the same time adding to its safety.

The only real negatives I can muster for the Rallye is the price. It’s an expensive bit of kit to throw around, but if money is not your barrier, then, it’s a great motorcycle for sure.

The BMW GS dynasty is safe—for now.

Specifications
BMW R1200 GS

Technical Data
Engine: Air/Liquid cooled Boxer 1170cc
kW/HP: 92/125
Top Speed: >200 kph
Weight: 244 kg
Seat Height: adjustable 850/870 mm (lowered suspension 800/820 mm)
Fuel Capacity: 20ltrs

Features and Upgrades
Judder Damper on Transmission Output Shaft
Revised Selector Drum and Transmission Shaft
Riding Mode Pro (Dynamic, Dynamic Pro, Enduro, Enduro Pro)
Next Generation Electronic Suspension ESA—self levelling
DTC—Traction Control
Shift Assist Pro
ABS Pro
Harder Off-Road Suspension
Hill Start Control
Dynamic Brake Lighting
Flat Enduro Seat

General Option Packs
Dynamic Package: Comprises DTC, LED headlight, Hill Start Control,
Shift Assistant Pro, Riding Modes Pro, ABS Pro, LED turn indicators
Comfort Package: Comprises chrome exhaust system, heated grips,
tyre pressure control RDC, hand protectors
Touring Package: Comprises of Dynamic ESA, Keyless Ride,
On-Board Computer Pro, GPS mount, Cruise Control

This article was originally published in the Gear 2017 issue of Overland Journal Europe.

Photos courtesy of BMW Motorrad.

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