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andes altiplano FI kate leeming

Breaking the Cycle: The Andes, the Altiplano & the Atacama expedition begins

Welcome to the first blog for this next expedition in my Breaking the Cycle series, The Andes, the Altiplano & the Atacama. Over the last couple of years I have undertaken to do a preparatory expedition for Breaking the Cycle South Pole on each continent (except Antarctica).

Each journey has been designed to be a credible stand-alone expedition as well as appropriate training for Antarctica – in polar conditions, on sand or at altitude. So far I have completed a bike-packing journey down the Baja Divide (North America), polar testing in Iceland (Europe), an unprecedented fatbike expedition down the Finke River (Australia), a new route over some of the highest passes in Ladakh, India (Asia) and another first, cycling the entire coastline of Namibia (Africa). The last and one of the most physically challenging expeditions in the series will be a journey at altitude – the Andes, the Altiplano and the Atacama (South America).

THE ANDES, THE ALTIPLANO & THE ATACAMA

Spanning over 7000km, the Andes is the longest mountain chain on the planet and boasts some of the highest peaks. The range also has the world’s highest volcanoes. Ojos del Salado on the Chile-Argentina border is the world’s highest, measuring 6,893m and there are more than 50 volcanoes that reach 6,000m. The Andes is also known for its ruins of ancient civilisations and the source of a malaria treatment.

The word altiplano means “high plain” in Spanish. The Altiplano is the area in west-central South America where the Andes are the widest. The bulk of the Altiplano lies in Bolivia, with its northern and western fringes extending into Peru and Chile respectively.

The Altiplano merges with the Puna de Atacama (Atacama Desert high plateau) region of northern Argentina, Chile and southern Bolivia. It is the highest, driest desert on Earth.

The journey will be a bicycle exploration of these high regions, from the rainy, potentially muddy Peruvian highlands, across the Altiplano and its mountainous fringes, the Puna de Atacama and finishing by cycling as high as possible up Ojos del Salado.

THE EXPEDITION

Over the next eight weeks, I am planning to cycle from Cusco in Peru to Ojos del Salado, the world’s highest volcano, in Chile, a distance of about 3500km. I hope to cover at least 500km a week, which will be quite a challenge in the conditions.

the andes and the altiplano route kate leeming
This route plan may have to be adapted if some of the roads in Bolivia are still flooded by the time I get there.

While the average altitude of the Altiplano is 3750m, my route will also take in several climbs in excess of 5000m. The percentage of oxygen in the air at sea level is 20.9%, on the Altiplano it is around 13% and at 6000m it is just below 10%. This will add significantly to my workload.

The weather forecast over the next two or three weeks is a concern. Being at the end of the wet season in southern Peru and northern Bolivia, I have come prepared for some rainy days, but this year, the weather has so far been exceptional. The wet season started almost two months late and seems to be extending into March. It may mean that I have to adapt my plans, particularly if there is a risk of mudslides or if roads are flooded.  I’ve prepared for some extreme mountain conditions on Ojos del Salado in late April and have hired a local guide to ensure our safety.

WHY ALTITUDE TRAINING FOR THE SOUTH POLE

Antarctica is the highest, driest windiest continent on Earth, where the altitude on the plateau is around 3000m. In the extreme cold, this will feel more like 4000m. Learning how to cope with such conditions in the Andes will be important physical and mental preparation. 

NEARLY THERE!

I started writing this blog about halfway across the Pacific Ocean en route to Cusco via Santiago, Chile. The lead up to this expedition has been even more demanding than usual. The filmmaker that I had lined up had to pull out with less than three weeks to go. I have managed to cobble together a new plan to ensure the safety of myself and my new team-mates and that the journey is captured properly on film.

Chris Pennington, who cycled down the Baja Divide with me in 2018, needed little persuasion to decide to join me. This time Chris wants to concentrate on his filmmaking, so he is not cycling. He will join me in La Paz, Bolivia and do three-quarters of the journey.  There, we will also meet Pepe who will be our guide and support vehicle driver for Bolivia and northern Chile. For the start in Peru, I have organised for a local filmmaker, Javier Bellina, who will also drive a 4×4 vehicle. Javier’s hire car cannot cross the border into Bolivia and so for a couple of days I will have to cycle unsupported carrying everything that I bring into Peru, including the cameras. There will be at least one other section that I will need to cycle unsupported – from southern Bolivia, across the high Atacama and into Argentina.

There have been other major projects that I’ve had to juggle over the last few months including the making of the documentary about last year’s journey down Namibia’s Skeleton Coast and organising an Australian/New Zealand presentation tour of the film which we have called Diamonds in the Sand for July and August.

BREAKING THE CYCLE EDUCATION

As with each of my expeditions, the educational aspect is integral. My education partner, Teach SDGs Ambassador, Annie Woollard, has created a fantastic set of ten lessons. Each lesson is dedicated to an aspect of my expedition, focusing on the Sustainable Development Goals, leadership and geography.

We encourage teachers in Australia and around the world to take part and record their involvement by putting themselves and their classes on the world map on the bottom of the home page of www.BreakingTheCycle.education

EXCITED

So even with all of the hurdles and commitments, I may be exhausted, but that’s nothing a few good sleeps won’t fix. I have never been to South America before and I have been researching and developing this expedition for three years, so I am excited to see how this part of the world fits together. I’m also looking forward to properly testing the capabilities of my new Christini all-wheel drive MTB that Steve Christini has custom-designed to give me the best bike for the expected conditions – good grip, stability and reasonable speed.

kate leeming bicycle
The new Christini all-wheel drive MTB loaded with the panniers the used for 22,000km across Africa. Working out what to pack was a challenging task because I could only bring to Cusco what I can carry on the bike, including camera kit for the filmmaker to use.

Tomorrow Javier, the Peruvian camera operator, arrives from Lima, so it will be good to meet him and start preparing to set off in two days time.

Here are some images from the flight and first night in Cusco.

kate leeming cusco
Cusco from the air. It was a spectacular flight into the ancient Inca capital city.
arco de santa clara kate leeming
Arco de Santa Clara
plaza de armas kate leeming
Plaza de Armas, the main city square – city lights and a beautifully clear cold night.
plaza de armas kate leeming
Panorama of Plaza de Armas, Cusco.

Related posts:

Part 1: Welcome – The Andes, the Altiplano & the Atacama expedition

Part 2: Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Part 3: Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

Part 4: Into the Peruvian Southern Highlands

Part 5: To Lake Titicaca and the Border

Part 6: Into Bolivia – unsupported

Breaking the Cycle Education

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Kate Leeming

Explorer/adventurer. Kate has cycled a distance greater than twice around the world at the Equator. In the early ’90s when she rode a total of 15,000 km as her way of experiencing Europe, Kate developed her passion for travelling by bicycle. Since then, Kate has stepped it up, performing three major expeditions: the Trans-Siberian Cycle Expedition from St. Petersburg to Vladivostok, the Great Australian Cycle Expedition with Greg Yeoman and the Breaking the Cycle in Africa expedition from Senegal to Somalia. Her next venture is Breaking the Cycle South Pole, which will be the first bicycle crossing of the Antarctic continent via the South Pole. She is preparing for this challenge with expeditions (polar, sand, altitude) on six continents.