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Breaking the Cycle Antarctica – the longest day: to the finish

Sprache wechseln German

Day 5

12th February | Distance – 54km | Total distance – 201km

Again the forecast was for good weather. Gale-force winds are a regular occurrence around Schirmacher Oasis/Novo so we were lucky to have the forces of nature on our side. 

As I was planning to do a longer day today to reach the finish, I decided to break my day into 12km stints to mentally cover the distance. The first 24km was a continuation of the previous day – soft, heavy-going but slightly better because of the weather. As I gradually descended, the surface became a little firmer, and my progress faster, though hitting the bumps harder.

Typical landscape for the first 20km of the day

Nearer to Novo Runway, the landscape flattened out and I started hitting large patches of ice. These ice fields have an irregularly dimpled surface, often sculptured into waves and points. I was again very nervous but tried to relax my shoulders as much as possible so not to over-react if a wheel slipped. I didn’t measure exactly how much ice I had to traverse but estimate it was probably around 7-8km. It felt like an eternity!

The first section of ice almost negotiated
Pleased to get through the first section of ice

I fought to keep full concentration, gently pedalling from snow patch to snow patch (which is easier to grip). Novo Runway is maintained by the Russian base Novolazarevskaya, also situated on Schirmacher Oasis. We were not permitted to cross the runway and so my nervous adventure across the ice was extended to going around the airstrip. 

From there we picked up an ice road that descended almost 500m to Schirmacher Oasis. I again had to hold my nerve on the first part of the descent as the track was almost pure ice apart from tiny strips of snow, which I clung to. I could only brake gently on the snowy patches to control the speed. After that, White Desert had made a beautifully groomed piste down a spectacular descent, leading all the way to Whichaway Camp and the finish. The final 250m was treacherous and I slipped one more time on the ice before walking the bike into camp.

Nearly there! A beautiful freewheel down to Schirmacher Oasis on a groomed piste
There’s always a sting in the tail. I captured this image on the Insta360 camera, the moment I hit the ice, about 250m from the finish. I had to walk this track into Whichaway Camp
The view wasn’t bad though! What a place!

The group of White Desert employees and three Indian Antarctic expeditioners who ventured across from Maitri, the Indian base also on the Oasis, were waiting, and greeted me with applause and hand shakes – and champagne! I was made feel really welcome and we celebrated together. 

Graham Lucas greets me – he was in charge of running and maintaining the camp
And finally, the team: Oleg, Sergei and myself – very happy to reach the finish successfully, in 5 days

This may have only been a short expedition, but still a really great adventure. I had to push my boundaries and dig extremely deep as the conditions and terrain presented all sorts of challenges. It may have been extremely physical, but more so, it was the power of the mind that carried me to the finish. 

Around Whichaway Camp were some incredible sights.

Looking across to a huge glacier from Whichaway Camp
A river and its tributaries flow under and through the glacier forming amazing ice tunnels. This is a tunnel near to the camp formed by a tributary
The natural light near to the tunnel entrance is sublime. Different colours of the spectrum are a result of differing amounts of light refracting through the ice
Icicles gradually grow like stalactites during the season until the river flows again and washes them away. This tributary had flowed earlier in the season, but there were still some icicles

Whichaway Camp was about to close the next day and the team was packed up and ready to leave. 

The camp is a collection of dome shaped fibreglass pods; weatherproof on the outside and fitted out in luxury on the inside. Like with all three White Desert camps, there is a leave nothing behind policy. Everything can be dismantled and removed so the environment is left in its natural state. All human waste (toilet systems, grey water, etc is removed).

It is an impressive operation and my mind boggles at the sheer lengths they go to to uphold its sustainable practices. The concept and the logistics that make White Desert operational come from the vision of true explorers – dreaming big and making it happen.

I had most of the next day at Whichaway to explore a little and relax before travelling with the last group of employees back to Wolf’s Fang courtesy of a brilliant flight in a Basler, bike, equipment, left over supplies and people all fitting neatly into the ski plane. 

The team packed everything into the Basler in readiness for the flight back to Wolf’s Fang. Note my bike, which was slipped on top of the crates
Schirmacher Oasis is on the edge of the continent, beyond is frozen sea ice

Back at Wolf’s Fang, the WD team worked tirelessly to pack everything up for the winter.

Virtually everything was taken down and stored in the main mess tent (being prepared for the winter) and some caches
With the Airbus waiting on the runway, it was a race against time to prepare and store everything. But something tells me this team thrives on a logistical challenge!

A big thank you to White Desert, particularly Luke and my very accomplished support team, Oleg and Sergei. I was in very experienced hands.

Of course, another big thank you to my sponsors whose logos are visible in the Blog emails.

BREAKING THE CYCLE

Picture of Kate Leeming

Kate Leeming

Explorer/adventurer. Kate has cycled a distance greater than twice around the world at the Equator. In the early ’90s when she rode a total of 15,000 km as her way of experiencing Europe, Kate developed her passion for travelling by bicycle. Since then, Kate has stepped it up, performing three major expeditions: the Trans-Siberian Cycle Expedition from St. Petersburg to Vladivostok, the Great Australian Cycle Expedition with Greg Yeoman and the Breaking the Cycle in Africa expedition from Senegal to Somalia. Her next venture is Breaking the Cycle South Pole, which will be the first bicycle crossing of the Antarctic continent via the South Pole. She is preparing for this challenge with expeditions (polar, sand, altitude) on six continents.