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cusco ollantaytambo kate leeming

Breaking the Cycle: Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Day 1 | February 29th | Distance 88km

After spending two days in Cusco preparing for the journey ahead, I thought Javier, my camera operator and support driver for the Peruvian section of the expedition, were well-organised. However, by the time we’d filmed a few scenes around the city centre, packed, picked up the hire car and set off it was already 10.30am.

ready to start plaza de armas kate leeming
Ready to go in Plaza de Armas, Cusco’s main square

The city was built long before there was a need for streets and, as a result, the city centre is a maze of narrow one-way cobblestone streets – very charming to walk around, but a nightmare for vehicles. Our B&B was on one of these narrow streets, so to load the vehicle, Javier had to stop the car in the lane and we loaded as quickly as possible while the traffic built up behind us. He then had to move on while I had to wait for the traffic to clear before I could start.

We both had the route marked on our maps, but when I turned into the street, Javier had been forced to move on. I continued on the agreed route, having lost Javier and assumed we would soon meet up once we’d navigated the laneways.

The only way out of Cusco is up and in chaotic traffic. Starting at around 3,350m elevation on the cobbles, it was a lung-busting start. I continued but regularly stopped to check my route and wondered where Javier was. The GPS on my SPOT tracker did not seem to be registering. I continued, up and up, winding through the outer suburbs. By the time we found each other – thank goodness for WhatsApp – we’d lost almost two hours. Javier’s pick-up couldn’t fit through one of the narrow streets. He then had got stuck with the one-way systems and inaccurate maps.

high above cusco kate leeming
My view of Cusco as I tried to locate Javier

The episode was a wake-up call that we had to ensure our communication systems worked a little better. We kept together for the remainder of the day and stuck to the less-direct main route rather than taking the quieter bicycle route.

Out of the city, I had another 6km climb up to Chinchero (3808m) before gradually dropping through beautiful verdant green mountains, lakes and agricultural land. Due to the slow start, we had to keep moving for the rest of the day to get to Ollantaytambo before dark.

Although the climbs were intense, I reaped the rewards on the level ground and downhills – I could hardly believe the scale and beauty of this dramatic, fertile landscape.

route to maras kate leeming
The road to Maras, famous for its salt mines, the Sacred Valley in the distance
maras salt mine kate leeming
Maras Salt Mines – produce highly sought after mineralised pink salt. Due to a landslide, we were unable to visit the mine, but this view was pretty good
maras salt mine kate leeming
Maras salinas close up
looking twoard urubamba from maras kate leeming
Javier filming from near Maras, looking down the valley towards Urubamba town and the river of the same name, then continues past the base of Machu Picchu and eventually flowing into the Amazon River

By the time I arrived at our destination, Ollantaytambo, the altitude had dropped down to 2800m. As the town is the point where people can take the train to Machu Picchu, and it has adjacent to another Inca archeological site, the beautiful town is buzzing with tourists, mostly travelling to and from one of the seven New Wonders of the World.

Day 1 was incredible eventful but totally rewarding. I was pleased that we made it in good time (once we got going) and excited to be visiting Machu Picchu, a place I have dreamed of visiting for a long time.

Part 1: Welcome – The Andes, the Altiplano & the Atacama expedition

Part 2: Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Part 3: Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

Part 4: Into the Peruvian Southern Highlands

Part 5: To Lake Titicaca and the Border

Part 6: Into Bolivia – unsupported

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Kate Leeming

Explorer/adventurer. Kate has cycled a distance greater than twice around the world at the Equator. In the early ’90s when she rode a total of 15,000 km as her way of experiencing Europe, Kate developed her passion for travelling by bicycle. Since then, Kate has stepped it up, performing three major expeditions: the Trans-Siberian Cycle Expedition from St. Petersburg to Vladivostok, the Great Australian Cycle Expedition with Greg Yeoman and the Breaking the Cycle in Africa expedition from Senegal to Somalia. Her next venture is Breaking the Cycle South Pole, which will be the first bicycle crossing of the Antarctic continent via the South Pole. She is preparing for this challenge with expeditions (polar, sand, altitude) on six continents.